The Independence Museum, Eskişehir — A Living History of the War of Independence
In the historic district of Odunpazarı, where wooden Ottoman mansions stand side by side, there is a house with a unique history. In 1921, İsmet İnönü—commander of the Turkish forces in the First Battle of İnönü—stayed there. Today, this restored mansion, Mestanoğlu Halil—the Independence Museum, Eskişehir (Kurtuluş Müzesi)—was opened on October 29, 2016, to mark the 93rd anniversary of the proclamation of the Republic of Turkey. There are no boring display cases with yellowed papers here: the Independence Museum, Eskişehir uses interactive touchscreens, wax figures, and multimedia halls to immerse visitors in the era of the War of Independence (1919–1923) and the Lausanne Conference.
History and Origins of the Independence Museum, Eskişehir
The Turkish War of Independence (1919–1923) was one of the most dramatic periods in the country’s history. After World War I, the Ottoman Empire was torn apart: Greek, British, French, and Italian troops occupied various regions of the country. Under these circumstances, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk led the national liberation movement. Central Anatolia became a key theater of operations.
Eskişehir was at the epicenter of these events. It was here, in January 1921, that the First Battle of İnönü took place—a battle in which Turkish units under the command of İsmet İnönü defeated the Greek forces. The victory had enormous strategic and moral significance: it demonstrated that the young republican army was capable of standing up to a vastly superior enemy. İsmet İnönü later became Turkey’s second president, and his name became a symbol of this victory.
The Mestanoğlu Halil Mansion, where İsmet İnönü took command during the battle, has been preserved in the historic Odunpazarı district. In June 2015, the Eskişehir Metropolitan Assembly initiated a project to restore it. The work was completed by the end of 2016. On October 29, 2016—the 93rd anniversary of the proclamation of the Republic of Turkey—the museum opened its doors to visitors. It was established by the Eskişehir Metropolitan Municipality.
The choice of opening date was symbolic: the Kurtuluş Museum became a gift to the city for the national holiday. The choice of building was no less significant: the mansion where the commander of the victorious battle lived has been transformed into a place of remembrance, preserving both personal history and the history of the nation.
Architecture and What to See
Mestanoğlu Halil Konağı is a typical example of an Ottoman wooden mansion in Odunpazarı: a two-story building with overhanging upper floors, wooden beams, and a traditional layout featuring a central hall. The 2015–2016 restoration restored its historical appearance, preserving the original structures wherever possible.
Children’s Floor: Interactive History
A special area for children is designated on the first floor. Touchscreens are installed here, allowing visitors to learn about the events of the War of Independence (1919–1923) and the Lausanne Conference (1922–1923). The interactive format allows children to “experience” historical events in a playful way, without overwhelming them with academic text.
Cartoon Hall
On the top floor are four themed halls. The “Cartoon Hall” (Karikatürler Odası) displays drawings from humorous magazines from 1919–1923. These cartoons are a unique historical source: they depict the Allies who occupied Istanbul, the government of Ahmed Tevfik Pasha, and those who opposed the War of Independence. Satire as a mirror of the era is a rare exhibition concept that offers a completely different perspective on events.
Strategic Room
The “Strategic Room” (Strateji Odası) is dedicated specifically to the First Battle of İnönü. Here, visitors can examine maps, tactical diagrams, and the room’s main attraction—wax sculptures of İsmet İnönü, Fahrettin Altay, and Mehmetçik (a generalized image of a Turkish soldier). The wax figures are highly realistic and create the impression of standing right next to the actual participants in the events.
The Newspaper Hall and Presentation Hall
The “Newspaper Hall” (Gazetelerle Kurtuluş Savaşı) shows how the press covered the military events. The “Presentation Hall” (Sunum Odası) houses visual artifacts arranged in chronological order—from the start of the occupation to the proclamation of the republic. This allows visitors to gain a comprehensive understanding of the course of events in a single visit.
Selfie Zone with Atatürk
The first floor features a unique room for visitors: here, you can take photos against a backdrop of portraits of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk or documentary photographs from the War of Independence. This light touch of interactivity appeals to a younger audience and turns a visit to the museum into an experience worth sharing.
Interesting facts and legends
- In 1921, İsmet İnönü—commander of the First Battle of İnönü—stayed at the Mestanoğlu Halil mansion. It was this very fact that determined the choice of the building for the museum.
- The museum opened on October 29, 2016—exactly on the 93rd anniversary of the proclamation of the Republic of Turkey. The symbolism of the date was intentional.
- The “Strategic Room” features wax figures of actual participants in the battle: İsmet İnönü, Fahrettin Altay, and Mehmetçik—a collective image of the Turkish soldier.
- Cartoons from satirical magazines from 1919–1923 represent a rare type of exhibition: few historical museums display satire as a primary historical source.
- İsmet İnönü, whose connection to the mansion gave the museum its historical legitimacy, later became Turkey’s second president and served as prime minister for many years.
How to get there
The Kurtuluş Museum is located in the Odunpazarı district of Eskişehir. The most convenient way to reach Eskişehir from Istanbul is by the Hızlı Tren high-speed train: the journey time from Istanbul Söğütlüçeşme or Pendik is about 1.5–2 hours. From Ankara, the train ride takes about 1.5 hours. The Eskişehir train station is located in the city center; from there, it’s about a 15–20-minute walk or a 5–7-minute taxi ride to Odunpazarı.
In Odunpazarı itself, the museum is within walking distance of other historic mansions in the district and the Museum of Contemporary Glass Art (Çağdaş Cam Sanatları Müzesi). Eskişehir EGO city buses connect the station with Odunpazarı. By car from Ankara—about 230 km via Highway O-21, with a travel time of about 2.5 hours.
Tips for travelers
The museum is open daily; admission is usually free or for a nominal fee—check the official website of the Eskişehir City Hall before your visit. The tour takes about 1–1.5 hours if you take your time exploring all the halls.
Odunpazarı is one of Turkey’s most picturesque historic districts, preserving wooden mansions from the 19th and early 20th centuries. A visit to the Kurtuluş Museum fits seamlessly into a walking tour of the neighborhood. Be sure to stop by the neighboring Çağdaş Cam Sanatları Müzesi—Turkey’s first museum of contemporary glass art, located just a few steps away.
Visit on weekdays: on weekends, Odunpazarı is particularly popular among locals and can get crowded. If you’re interested in the history of the War of Independence, bring along a Russian translation of “Nutuk”—Atatürk’s 1927 speech: Eskişehir and İnönü play a significant role in it. The Independence Museum in Eskişehir is not just a museum, but a place where Turkey’s history ceases to be an abstraction and becomes a reality tied to a specific wooden house with the scent of old wood and crumbling walls.